I am so glad that I am visiting China as guest rather then a tourist on an
organized vacation. I could not envision experiencing this country any other
way. I often think that these organized trips reinforce stereotypes. For
instance China is a strange and mysterious, completely unfamiliar place filled
with relics from ancient past. After a week of Shenzhen under my belt,
this city is starting to become more familiar and less awkward. I could picture
my self living here in relative comfort and ease, riding public transit,
eating in restaurants, socializing with the natives. What I can't envision is
ever being content with using the squatter toilet and today I had my first
encounter with the device. It wasn't pretty. I was waiting to go through Hong
Kong customs when my stomach started to grumbled and feel uneasy. Finding a
toilet on the other side was my only thought, not whether I wasn't to sit or
crouch. I was prepared with thoughts of eventually using the device but when it
came down to doing the business with a sense of urgency, when I opened that
bathroom door and didn't see a bowl, I panicked. Although it was gross and my
clothes and body came painfully close to my own excrement I survived the ordeal
unscathed, even with an upset stomach and ironically a slightly sprained ankle
which made the squatting experience that
much painful. In the US I treat the bathroom as
a second office. A place to take and receive calls, read the newspaper, drink a
tea beverage. The squatter is no good and I don't appreciate it. Thankfully I
didn't need to use the squatter on the train in route to Guanzhou. Although our
visit was brief, Hong Kong appears to be no fun in regards to foreign
oddities. People dont stare at you like they do in China, it's all business as
usual, just like NYC. Instead of talking Chinese to you even those its
obvious you dont know what they are saying, everyone speaks a little
english to you even if it's slightly inaccurate.
I was surprised to see
so many people at the Picaso exhibit. I would not expect such a museum in the
mainland and the type of audience the museum attracted reminded me of the MET
or MOMA, not the same people you see on the street of Shenzhen. For some odd
reason Hong Kong We were planning to attend the exhibit with Nina, a friend we
met at an either party but she had a problem with her VISA and had to file
which took her an hour or two extra. It appears to be easier for foreigners to
travel back a forth from China and Hong Kong then it is for most mainlanders
and SAR residents.
From Hong Kong we doubled back through all the security tabs
border crossings and then took a train to Guanzhou where we met Ben, a friend
of Kristy who is a basketball player/model/DJ and was kind enough to pick up
our basketball tickets and meet us at the train station. The tickets we bought
were for a double header, China v Tunisia and Russia v Australia. Dan was
pretty pissed when he realized their was no beer and just bangy sticks.
There
was one really tall and talented Chinese player that looked like Yao Ming but
didn't exactly play like the national hero who fills the side of busses aside
Jackie Chan. All in all the game sucked. The Russia v Australia game was
even worse and prompted us to leave and check in at a hotel next to Ben's
school. For about 30 bucks we got plush accommodations and Dan got bumped to a
luxury sweet with a jacuzzi. Ben took us to Babyface a very popular club that
he spins at in Guanzhou. The music was loud, the lights were colorful and the
place was packed. Table service was provided behind the small dance floor. For
the first time during the trip we were the only foreigners partying at a
Chinese club. Dan ordered a bottle and they had staff that would mix our liquor
and service us with free snacks. Chinese men drink fast and often to prove
their strength. Drinking is one big penis contest and often leads to all sorts
of absurd behavior and possible a fight. This is Ben's norm and I'm sure he was
struck by the fact that I wanted to dance, didnt know how to play his dice game
and purposely limited my alcohol consumption. Desire and I joined the some of the
natives on the dance floor and on the stage. They loved this and I was told I'd
end up on webowa aka Chinese YouTube in the morning. The Chinese seem to lack
the desire and confidence displayed in the American or European club scene. The
dance floor consists of a few skinny boys and is almost devoid of women. The
guys dance together and know one really pays any attention. Given that I
sometimes move around like a maniac with little concern for what those around
me think, this really gets them enthusiastic. Everyone on the dance floor
wanted to take our picture, dance and touch us. I liked to watch the chinese
guys when I pushed Desire next to them. It wasnt until the following morning
that I learned our party habits were enjoyed by most but not everyone. It turns
out that one of the guys sitting at a table next to us did not appreciate the
enthusiasm and our dancing. He said something to Ben around the lines that he
wanted us to leave the club, leave him and the rest of his rich friends alone
and said that he was considering talking to the owner to get us booted. Ben
told him to relax and that he worked at the club and that we all had a right to
be there. I don't know if my safety was threatened, but to Dan this very
seriously and used the following day to lecture me about the various incidents
he has heard about regarding violent I encounters between the Chinese and
foreigners. Many Chinese feel threatened in the presence of westerners, they
get pissed drunk and it's not like they can tell me to sit my ass down like is
often done in the US before a fight. Dan told me that at best they would
yell and at worse they would break a bottle over my head. I was unhappy to hear
this although this all occurred after the fact and didnt allow me to motify my
behavior during the evening. The threat of violence is even greater when
foreigners are spotted with Chinese women as Chinese men are envious of
westerners, protective, angry and don't deal with their emotions well. We
moved onto another, quieter bar completely unscathed. It was here that we met
Edie, a odd looking small Chinese man child who was overly flirtatious with his
own gender. His behavior could only be compared to the gay ladyboy clowns of
Thailand that my friend Chris described from Peace Corps. Since homosexuality
is so gravely inappropriate, many gay men act in an odd comedic fashion and
society views the behavior as an form of clown like entertainment. Edie
would try kissing me and would pull on my clothes and then apologize profusely
in an odd series of immature actions. Dan, trying to be a rational
American tries to explain to him that in the US homosexuality is acceptable and
that he could set him up with a gay guy. Im sure Edie didn't even know what the
hell he was saying although even if he did how the hell do you think he
would respond? Yes Dan, that sounds great, now I don't have to act like a fool
and molest your friend. The whole situation was stupid, uncomfortable,
yet oddly interesting. After getting back to the hotel, Ben, Desire and I
were fortunate to find a street vendor at 5 AM who was grilling some meats. We
chat with some sharply dressed guys who offered us some free food that we
happily ate and then proceeded to throw the sticks in the ground like little
javelins just like the natives . I hate littering but there are so many people
in China that the country has an army of street cleaners at work 24/7 to keep
the streets top notch. On the way back to the hotel Ben explained to us that
the guys that treated us to the food hated Americans. Hated Americans? Then why
did they pay for our food? Like I said before, China is a land of
contradictions. Buying food for a foreigner is a way to demonstrate your
prosperity and show off to some Americans that most likely have more then
you. I understand all of this, it just doesnt make much sense. TIC, this is
China.
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